Graceful and mainly low-rise, with the coast's largest remaining fishing fleet, Estepona evokes memories of the Costa del Sol before the tourism boom. Despite a flurry of new construction near the yacht harbour, the town stands back 100m or more from its broad beach, Playa Rada, and seaside paseo. The casco antiguo is full of shops offering attractive merchandise, rather than souvenirs and the town has many superb small restaurants. Some set their tables beneath orange trees on squares arranged around bubbling fountains. Prevailing breezes make Estepona the most temperate spot on the Costa del Sol - cooler in the summer, warmer in the winter. To escape the wind, locals favour Playa Cristo in a sheltered cove about 4km west from town.

Change is afoot in Estepona now there is improved access from the new Malaga-Estepona expressway. On the edges of town, luxury resort developments are sprouting and a pleasure harbour with flashy nightlife encroaches on the entrance to the fishing port. There is a tourist-oriented 'nature park' with 1000 animals in semi-freedom on the outskirts of Estepona on the N340 towards Marbella. Most of the towns nightclubs are located in Puerto de Estepona at the west end of town near the lighthouse. To celebrate the Fiesta del Carmen, the town's fishing boats make a colourful maritime procession through the town on July 16.